The blades run in diameter from about 6 inches all the way up to 10 inches or more, the most usual sizes in saws for home craftsmen being found in the 7- to 9-inch range. The depth of cut depends upon the size of the blade and, to a certain degree, upon the make of saw, which will govern the angle of the cut with the tilting arbor. All good bench saws can be adjusted for depth of cut, being set for the various thicknesses of wood to be cut, or for the depth of cut when dadoes or other special cuts are being made. The straight depth of cut will vary with individual makes from 2 to about 31/2 inches, depending upon the design of the saw, the size of blade, and the power of the motor.

One thing to check on before purchasing is the method of blade removal when replacement or changing to another type of tooth is necessary. This is very important because you may find that you'll change the blade a half-dozen times or more in the course of some projects in order to take advantage of your saw for ripping, crosscutting, dadoing, or whatever cuts are indicated. If the nut holding the blade is located in an open position, enabling you to use a wrench easily and quickly, you will be able to change blades in a trice. If, however, the housing restricts the wrench movement or does not permit insertion of the hand to use the wrench, it will take more time and many curses to complete the change.

Check also on the bore of the saw blade. We recommend a 5/8-inch bore, because replacement blades (unless made by the manufacturer of your saw) frequently come with 5/8-inch bores and small bushings with which to adapt them to a 1/2-inch shaft. You will find that the bushing pushes out during installation, gets lost in sawdust on the floor, and is generally a nuisance. By purchasing a 5/8-inch bore in the beginning you can avoid all this. If you already have a 1/2-inch type, wire or scotch tape the bushing to the blade each time you remove it to prevent its being lost.